Places to Visit in and around Auvergne
Lovers of France have all heard of the Auvergne but not that many know exactly where it is.
The Auvergne is the volcanic core of the country also known as the “Massif Central”. It is by far the most stunning area of the country, rooted in tradition and legend and often referred to as the “ secret garden of France” it represents everything truly French. It is to a large degree still wholly unspoilt and its vast unpopulated areas provide space for lovers of the great outdoors.
The region, an area blessed with lakes, forests, mountains and amazing scenery, is divided into four departments: – the Allier, Cantal, Haute Loire and the Puy de Dome with its exceptional natural and wonderfully unspoilt landscape. The university town of Clermont Ferrand is the capital of the region and the gateway between the north and south of the country.
In the department of the Puy de Dome lies the Livradois Forez Nature Park a paradise lovers of the great outdoors and for walkers there are miles of signposted footpaths giving access to the more remote heights of the mountains where cross country and down hill skiing is possible during the winter months. However the most endearing feature of the Livradois Forez is the warmth and generosity of the local people who are deeply attached to their region but are happy to share with you the discrete charm of Frances’ secret garden.
The number of places to visit is endless, the beauty of the area outstanding and one visit to the ‘Massif Central’ will never be enough, as you will get taken in by the sheer splendour of this magnificent region of the AUVERGNE. Here is a short guide to a few of the towns and villages worth a visit.

The town of Ambert is a medieval market town with the only round Marie in Europe. It is famous for its “fourme” cheese and was well known for production of fine paper with over 300 paper mills in operation by 16th Century. You could visit the Moulin Richard de Bas, a working mill since 1326, now houses the paper museum where paper makers still produce “pure rag” paper sheets decorated with flower inserts. The picturesque centre, withits narrow streets and alleys has changed little over the centuries.
Market day is a Thursday, the local store holders can be found in the arches of the Marie selling all home-grown and hand-made produce. You need to visit the market in a morning as the majority of stalls are all packed away by lunch. There are many colourful bars, street cafés and restaurants to try on your visit here.
Jardin pour la Terre is situated in Arlanc which is in the Monts Forez, it is a botanical garden with various indigenous plants of every country of the world. It is open in July and August and at weekends during June, September and some of October.
The town of Thiers has been the centre for cutlery making since the medieval times, producing everything from table knives to guillotine blades, and cutlery remains its main industry today, much of it is on display in the cutlery museum, the Musée de la Coutellerie. The town itself has 15th and 17th Century houses elaborately carved with wooden façades some with grinning crazed faces.
Just over an hours drive away towards the volcanic region you will find the small mountain town of Bess in the Mont Dore area, which was made prosperous by the dairy industry and famous for St Nectaire cheese. There are several restaurants and cafés, some small and interesting shops and a ski museum. The street market is on a Monday.
Higher up the mountain you can find Super Besse a small and modern ski resort with
links to the pistes of Mont Dore. The cable car runs most of the year. You will find shops,restaurants and bars / cafés. There is also a lake to walk around. On the way up to Super Besse you will see signs to Lac Pavin; this is well worth a visit. The lake was formed in the crater of a volcano and you can walk around it, it takes approximately three hours and is 7.5 km.
Puy de Sancy in the Mont Dore is the highest point in central France (1885m). Its peak can be reached by taking the cable car from the town of Mont Dore to the summit. From Mont Dore take the exhilarating scenic drive on the D36 which leads to the Couze de Chambon valley, a stunning stretch of high moor land threaded with waterfalls.
On leaving the village of Cunlhat by car and drive north for about 45 minutes you will find yourself in Clermont Ferrand a large and lively city with its buildings made from black volcanic rock – including the cathedral,
it has all the amenities, shops and supermarkets you could expect. Visit one of France’s oldest chocolate shops – near the cathedral.There several good museums, one with an exceptional collection of oriental carpets. The medieval quarter is a maze of lanes with all unique little shops; it is situated in the old city behind the cathedral. The daily food market in Place St Pierre is worth a visit and is especially good on Saturdays.
Of the extinct volcanoes, the Puy de Dôme in the Monts Dômes, just west of Clermont-Ferrand is a 10 minute walk from the car park to its summit. On a clear day the views are fabulous, and there is an exceptionally good panoramic restaurant.
On your way to Clermont Ferrand you will pass through the village of Billom, Billom is a medieval town centred around the “Rue des Boucheries” (butcher’s street) and dominated by the church. It has a good Monday market and is famous for its pink garlic.
Not to far away, by car again,you will find the town of Issoire a pleasant town with a good Saturday street market. One of the few relics of the old Issoire is the 12th Century abbey church – St Austremoine it is one of the great Romanesque churches of the region.
And finally but by far the end, as the places to visit are endless, a must visit is Le Puy-en-Velay one of France’s most stunning sights. The well preserved old town has survived the ravages of time.
Notre-Dame cathedral is its centre piece and a 35-hectare conservation area on the World Heritage List. It is an artistic and cultural centre with an amazing, thousand year old Romanesque chapel crowning the 80-metre high Aiguilhe Rock which overlooks the town. Lace making is an important local industry.
